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The Craft of Silver Jewellery Making

The Craft of Silver Jewellery MakingSilver Jewellery Introduction

Silver has a unique luster which has made it an obvious choice for craftsmen over the centuries. Simple jewellery, made from silver wire and sheets, cut and shaped into elegant forms, is a good starting point for the amateur silversmith.

Origins

The ancient civilisation of Egypt and Greece both regarded gold and silver jewellery as a symbol of wealth. Examples can be seen in many museums around the world. The Romans produced huge quantities of silverware and although many families ate from silver dishes, the owning of large amounts of silver still denoted status.

Very few examples of silverware from the Middle Ages still remain. As it was frequently used as a form of currency, silver objects were often melted down in times of financial crisis. Some of the best examples of period silverware were made in the 18th century.

At the beginning of this century, there was a revival of interest in crafts (including silversmithing) with the Arts and Crafts movement.

The Craft of Silver Jewellery MakingBasic techniques

Silver – The silver content of metals is expressed in terms of its ‘fineness’ or parts of silver per 1000 parts of total metal.

Sterling Silver - is 925 per 1000, the rest being copper. As pure silver is very soft, the copper enhances its strength and durability. Sterling silver is mostly used for tableware, jewellery and decorative objects.

Britannia Silver – is 950 parts per 1000. It is softer and used in pieces where durability is less important than malleability and ease of working.

Indian and ethnic jewellery owes its appearance to being about 800 parts per 1000. This is regarded as sub-quality silver by European standards and is not available for silversmithing. If you wish to make this type of jewellery you need to buy sterling silver and paint the finished object with an oxidizing solution (ammonium sulphate) to achieve the distinctive blackened look.

Silver is available from specialist suppliers in sheet or wire form. The thickness of each sheet is measured in millimetres or gauges. Gauge 8, for example, is 0.55mm, gauge 10 is 0.7mm and gauge 15 is 1.1mm thick. Silver wire ranges from 0.3mm to 3 or 4mm thick and is available in either round or square cross sections.

Sawing and Filing – By simply sawing and filing small pieces of silver you can produce very basic, yet attractive pieces of jewellery. All it takes is a few essential pieces of equipment and patience and care. The silver is held flat on a bench peg and cut with a piercing saw or fine saw blade – almost as thin as a hair – and needle files are then used to smooth and shape the silver.

Working with heat – Metals tend to harden when bent or hit into shapes, so most silver is softened (known as annealing) to increase its malleability, before it is worked on. This is done with a blow torch. The silver is heated until it turns cherry red and then cooled. When cool enough to handle it will be more workable, so it can be bent to shape or patterned. It is reheated if it becomes hard again. After working and polishing it will return to its original hard, springy state.

Soldering – This is used to join pieces of silver, for example to make a ring or to join elements of the piece together. The surface of the silver is first painted with a medium known as flux (borax). This prevents the silver from oxidizing and keeps the surface clean when heated, so that the solder flows and adheres to the area. Small pieces of silver solder are applied and the whole piece heated with a blowtorch until the solder runs and joins the surfaces.

Finishing the work – Before polishing, the work must be cleaned, particularly if it has been soldered. This is done using a special pickle (such as alum) or an acid.

There are various methods of producing the final finish. Burnishing is done by rubbing the surface with a smooth piece of steel. Polishing is done in two stages, first with carborundum based emery paper, and then with a special rotary polisher and polishes called Tripoli and rouge.

Hallmarks – Before silver items can be sold, if they are over a certain weight, they have to have a hallmark stamped on them as a form of quality control and identification.

The quality of sterling in Britain has been regulated and assured in this way since 1327. A hallmark today reveals the name of the maker (initials), the standard of the silver (either 925 or 950 ((lion symbol))), the assay mark  (town of origin – Leopard represents London, Anchor represents Bristol and a Castle represents Edinburgh) and the date. The date is indicated by a single initial, the style of lettering changing to indicate the age of the item.


Courses

If you offer Silversmith courses / evening classes / demonstrations -  please contact us to advertise your details here.

There are lots of books available to learn the skills from home.

To learn proper Silversmith techniques the best starting point is to contact polytechnics / colleges to see if they have any organized courses.

Jewellery Making Courses

Standard Information
Location - Grand Vabre, Aveyron, France (English speaking only)
Airport - Toulouse or Rodez
Includes - Project kits, hotel accommodation, lunches on workshop days, breakfast, transfers from and to airport
Doesn't include - Flights or dinner

A Week of Jewellery MakingA Week of Jewellery Making - 500 Euros
These will be ideal breaks for anyone interested learning the techniques to design and make their own jewellery, whether you are a complete beginner (in which case we will take you through all the basics) or a little more experienced but wanting to expand into chain making, wire wrapping etc or just want the time to yourself to do your own thing at the workshops, you will spend the week learning to make beautiful jewellery and take many wonderful pieces home with you. 9 projects teaching you the following skills: making your own findings, making earrings, wire wrapping, byzantine chain, wire rings, circular netting stitch, spiral rope stitch and more.
Dates
Saturday 20th - 27th December 2008- Pickup from Toulouse Airport 
Saturday 27th December 2008- Pickup from Toulouse Airport 
Saturday 14th-21st February 2009- Pickup from Toulouse Airport 
Friday 10th- Friday 17th April 2009- Pickup from Rodez
http://www.lavidalerie.com/JewelleryWorkshops/Week-of-jewellery-making.html

Introduction to Chainmail JewelleryIntroduction to Chainmail Jewellery - 2 Days/3 Nights - 255 Euros
This two day workshop has been developed for complete beginners or those who have maybe tried chainmail but found it difficult. We will be making a number of projects based on European 4 in 1 weave and Byzantine chain (we'll be touching on other weaves during the workshops). We will be mainly using copper and aluminium rings but will complete one project in silver (additional materials will be available for purchase). We will also cover making your own findings and wire wrapping.
Dates
Saturday 31st January- Tuesday 3rd February 2009 - Pickup from Toulouse Airport 
Wednesday 18th March - Saturday 21st March 2009 - Pickup from Toulouse Airport
Friday 24th April - Monday 27th April 2009 - Pickup from Rodez Airport
http://www.lavidalerie.com/JewelleryWorkshops/Chainmail-workshop.html

Tiara and Wedding Jewellery Tiara and Wedding Jewellery - 2 Days/3Nights - 255 Euros
This is a two day workshop for complete beginners, whether you want to make a tiara for your own wedding or a friends or maybe you would like to learn how to make them as a hobby or business. You will design and make 1 - 2 tiaras using silver or gold plated wire, wonderful beads or even semi-precious stone chips (if you already have an idea of colours etc you can send a sample in advance and I will make sure we have matching beads). We will also be making a matching set of jewellery (to your own design) either to go with a wedding dress or maybe to match another outfit or perhaps as a gift for your bridesmaid. 
Dates
Wednesday 4th February - Saturday 7th February 2009 - Pickup from Toulouse Airport
Saturday 14th March - Tuesday 17th March 2009 - Pickup from Toulouse Airport
Friday 1st May - Monday 4th May 2009 - Pickup from Rodez Airport
http://www.lavidalerie.com/JewelleryWorkshops/Tiara-Workshop.htm

Introduction to Jewellery Making WorkshopIntroduction to Jewellery Making Workshop - 2 Days - 255 Euros
This two day workshop has been developed for complete beginners to jewellery making or those who have maybe dabbled and would like to go a little further. We will cover the basics, types of tools, how to use them, different types of beads, using crimps, sterling v silver plated, making your own earwires and findings, lots of different earrings, illusion necklaces, attaching clasps and lots more. Although project kits will be provided please feel free to bring any beads you would like to incorporate into your designs (additional materials will be available for purchase). 
Dates
Saturday 28th February - Tuesday 3rd March 2009 - Pickup from Toulouse Airport
Wednesday 1st April - Saturday 4th April 2009 - Pickup from Toulouse Airport
Friday 8th May - Monday 11th May 2009 - Pickup from Rodez Airport
www.lavidalerie.com/JewelleryWorkshops/Introduction-to-Jewellery-Making.html

Contact: Karen Sarll
karen@lavidalerie.com

Telephone:
0033 5 65 46 13 55
(Please mention this web site when contacting)

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